Recent Posts

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91
TR280i / Re: Rear brake caliper
« Last post by bob on May 24, 2014, 06:22:17 PM »
I reckon the Explorer rear caliper is far too fierce and replacing it with a 280i item could be a good move...

92
Explorer / Re: Clake II
« Last post by bob on May 24, 2014, 06:14:45 PM »
That's an interesting bit of kit. I can understand what a hand operated rear brake does but how does it interact with the clutch? And why?
Any chance of a web link to Clake? I've Googled it and can't find anything.
93
Explorer / Clake II
« Last post by Lotus54 on May 24, 2014, 02:40:40 AM »
I installed my Clake II.
left hand rear brake, spring assisted clutch and keeping the footbrake.

I've only used it a bit so,far, but I think it will be great.

The brake can can operate the clutch also if you want, to a varying amount.
I really like a LHRB, since I can keep my feet where I want them and my hips straight with the bike.





94
TR280i / Rear brake caliper
« Last post by Lotus54 on May 17, 2014, 12:00:35 AM »
Does anyone have a picture of the TR rear brake caliper and mount?

It seems it is different than the Explorer, and I'm looking into alternatives since the mount on mine is bent and I can see the caliper flex. The explorer came with a 4 piston caliper- appears the same as the front.

Mark
95
General Discussion / Re: 1970-1973 Mar 250
« Last post by Lotus54 on May 16, 2014, 02:24:40 AM »
I've recently seen a couple foe sale- one in ebay I thought.

Here is one.
 Near Minneapolis I think


http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/4466798640.html
96
General Discussion / 1970-1973 Mar 250
« Last post by foxfyr7337 on May 16, 2014, 12:38:19 AM »
I'm new to this and an old trials guy. I always dreamed of owning an MAR in the 1970-1973 models. I have been looking for one in excellent condition. To be honest I haven't seen any on ebay in awhile or for that matter any on any site I've looked at. Anyone have any suggestions or know someone looking to sell? I'm located in chicago area. .
97
I thought the fender may be too close, but I over 75 hours of trail riding (and 4 trials) I've yet to have any issue at all with it.
Even with really sticky mud I didn't have any sort of problem.
I do run the pressures low and perhaps that helps flick the  mud off?

My understanding is you shouldn't adjust the idle without setting the TPS.
  There is a new throttle body avaliable that solves that, but I don't know the price.

Trialsage-good to see you got on!


Mark
98
Glad you are liking the bike in general-- we will hopefully have the new aluminium gas cap soon-- sounds like you have a solution for the fender etc etc-- please don hesitate to contact us if you need any help with anything.
Ossausa
99
Explorer / Re: Transmission issue & Hello!
« Last post by bob on May 02, 2014, 08:05:42 AM »
 Always worth remembering that when you're trying to free something off with heat the objective is to expand the material which surrounds the offending article. Alloy expands more than than steel and so directing heat at an alloy casting will loosen its grip on the fastener. Applying a soldering iron to a fastener could potentially make it tighten up.
When all else fails in such situations and you've resolved yourself to sacrificing the fastener to remove it, an old wood chisel can often sort the problem out . Put the chisel across the head of the fastener and give it a whack as if you are cutting a slot for a screwdriver. Carefully hold the chisel in the slot and tap the screw loose with judicious taps of the hammer.
100
Explorer / Re: Transmission issue & Hello!
« Last post by AM407 on May 01, 2014, 11:12:46 PM »
Yes, I had thought about applying some heat (I actually put a soldering iron tip onto the stubborn screw for a bit, but I think it did nothing). The screw is buried deep in the clutch basket and there is very little clearance, so I was worried about the flame hitting stuff I didn't want it to hit. Hopefully there is no "next time", but if there is, maybe I'll get one of those micro-torches to try out.

But my real mistake was trying to get the screws out without having the proper tool. As I said, regular Allen keys are useless. In the end, I had to hunt down a 1/4" drive short hex key (3/8" drive is too bulky to reach, and the long ones are too flexible to do anything!), but by then I had already done too much damage to the socket head on the one screw.
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